This year, in the spirit of this blog about traveling, we decided to travel for Christmas. We picked Slovenia. You can look it up - itś over just east of Italy. Itś NOT Slovakia, contrary to what George W said during a visit here (and has not been forgiven for. People still tell us about it.) We picked it at the advice of Katarina, our friend from, of all places, Slovakia. Then we started looking it up, and talking about it, and getting excited about it, and, poof!, Neal decided to come, too. What a wonderful Christmas present, huh?
Little did we know that we would pick such a rotten-weather, transportation-snarling year to do this. It has been a test of patience and ingenuity. Ed and I spent 13 hours in the Bergen airport, then overnight in Copenhagen, then were rerouted to Zurich. That was actually almost a plus! They had a nice Christmas market in the downtown train station, and we even had time to wander around town. Beautiful place covered in snow, and -12 C (10 F). Hot mulled wine, what a great invention! We finally got to Ljubljana about dinner time, 36 hours after we were supposed to take off.
Meanwhile, Neal got out of New Jersey before the storm hit there, but not before they shut down the Venice airport. He was supposed to take the train from Venice to Ljubljana. So he flew into Vienna, sans luggage. Then he discovered the train to Ljubljana didn´t leave till the next morning. So he went into downtown Vienna looking for a hotel. The receptionist at the Hilton told him he could get to Ljubljana on local trains, if he was lucky on the transfer in Salzburg. It was only a 6 minute connection. So at 1 am, he was in Salzburg, getting on the wrong train. We are SO glad he asked someone if this train went to Ljubljana before it took off! Leaping back onto the platform, all alone in the night, he crossed his fingers and won the gold ring. A train showed up in 5 minutes and it was the right one. He got to Ljubljana at 6 am, it was -19 C (-2 F), and he walked across town to the penzion. There was a lobby so he was out of the weather while he waited for the owner to get out of bed and drive to the penzion and let him in. The owner, Marjan, thought, ˝He sure travels light. Maybe he is rich and will buy everything he needs while he is here.˝ Close! After a few days, we bought him some clothes. It took 8 days for his luggage to finally arrive. We figure it was on a pan-European trip of its own. We got it one hour before we left Slovenia. LOL
Ljubljana is very lively, modern, and also has the old town area. The mayor is making more walking zones in the middle of town, and people seem very happy with that. The Christmas lights were awesome! We especially enjoyed the street that has asteroids streaking to earth, a galaxy, a DNA strand unraveling, X and Y chromosomes, and even an egg with circling sperm. What fun!
One thing we learned from Rick Steves, our favorite travel writer, is that hiring a guide for yourself is actually worth it. This trip was no exception. We hired Minka, the only Slovenian woman to walk to the North Pole. After a two-hour walking tour of the old town, we asked if she would drive us to the Postojnska cave and to Piran on the coast the next day. By this time, the weather had warmed and it was raining. Bad driving conditions, but we did fine. The Postojnska cave is a huge limestone cave with stalactites and stalagmites in white, red (iron), and green (algae from the lighting). Then we dropped by Predjama Castle, where the rebellious knight Erazem Predjamski lived easily through a winter-long siege while his siegers were cold and hungry. Little did they know that he had caves behind the castle, through which his servants went out into the countryside and brought back food. He sent fresh cherries to his siegers in the spring. Ooh, mean!
Next stop was down the mountains to Piran, on the 47 km long Slovenian coast. We had wonderful food, including this dessert with walnuts, poppy seeds, apple, custard, and cake layers, called ... a very long name. Prekmurska gibanica. Piran is on a long narrow peninsula that used to be an island. The streets are narrow and cobblestoned. The church at the point of the peninsula was getting ready for Christmas. We could see in, all the lights were on, the nuns were dusting and laying out cloths, and it was beautiful. With a brief break in the rain, we could see both Italy to the west and Croatia to the east. Piran was like a medieval fairy tale city.
Christmas day we decided to stay dry. Ed and Neal went to the casino. I stayed in to read and knit. In the afternoon, Neal and I got reflexology foot massages, and at 5 o'clock there was the raising of the bell ceremony. A lighted bell rises from the lake, and locals play bell music.
to be continued... when the sun finally comes out!
Na zdravje! Cheers!
Little did we know that we would pick such a rotten-weather, transportation-snarling year to do this. It has been a test of patience and ingenuity. Ed and I spent 13 hours in the Bergen airport, then overnight in Copenhagen, then were rerouted to Zurich. That was actually almost a plus! They had a nice Christmas market in the downtown train station, and we even had time to wander around town. Beautiful place covered in snow, and -12 C (10 F). Hot mulled wine, what a great invention! We finally got to Ljubljana about dinner time, 36 hours after we were supposed to take off.
an "angel?" in Zurich's Christmas market
Just a tad cold in Zurich - -12 C or 10 F
Meanwhile, Neal got out of New Jersey before the storm hit there, but not before they shut down the Venice airport. He was supposed to take the train from Venice to Ljubljana. So he flew into Vienna, sans luggage. Then he discovered the train to Ljubljana didn´t leave till the next morning. So he went into downtown Vienna looking for a hotel. The receptionist at the Hilton told him he could get to Ljubljana on local trains, if he was lucky on the transfer in Salzburg. It was only a 6 minute connection. So at 1 am, he was in Salzburg, getting on the wrong train. We are SO glad he asked someone if this train went to Ljubljana before it took off! Leaping back onto the platform, all alone in the night, he crossed his fingers and won the gold ring. A train showed up in 5 minutes and it was the right one. He got to Ljubljana at 6 am, it was -19 C (-2 F), and he walked across town to the penzion. There was a lobby so he was out of the weather while he waited for the owner to get out of bed and drive to the penzion and let him in. The owner, Marjan, thought, ˝He sure travels light. Maybe he is rich and will buy everything he needs while he is here.˝ Close! After a few days, we bought him some clothes. It took 8 days for his luggage to finally arrive. We figure it was on a pan-European trip of its own. We got it one hour before we left Slovenia. LOL
The long-lost luggage in Ljubljana airport
Ljubljana is very lively, modern, and also has the old town area. The mayor is making more walking zones in the middle of town, and people seem very happy with that. The Christmas lights were awesome! We especially enjoyed the street that has asteroids streaking to earth, a galaxy, a DNA strand unraveling, X and Y chromosomes, and even an egg with circling sperm. What fun!
Ljubljana from the castle on the hill
One thing we learned from Rick Steves, our favorite travel writer, is that hiring a guide for yourself is actually worth it. This trip was no exception. We hired Minka, the only Slovenian woman to walk to the North Pole. After a two-hour walking tour of the old town, we asked if she would drive us to the Postojnska cave and to Piran on the coast the next day. By this time, the weather had warmed and it was raining. Bad driving conditions, but we did fine. The Postojnska cave is a huge limestone cave with stalactites and stalagmites in white, red (iron), and green (algae from the lighting). Then we dropped by Predjama Castle, where the rebellious knight Erazem Predjamski lived easily through a winter-long siege while his siegers were cold and hungry. Little did they know that he had caves behind the castle, through which his servants went out into the countryside and brought back food. He sent fresh cherries to his siegers in the spring. Ooh, mean!
Ljubljana's dragon bridge. Dragons are their symbol.
Next stop was down the mountains to Piran, on the 47 km long Slovenian coast. We had wonderful food, including this dessert with walnuts, poppy seeds, apple, custard, and cake layers, called ... a very long name. Prekmurska gibanica. Piran is on a long narrow peninsula that used to be an island. The streets are narrow and cobblestoned. The church at the point of the peninsula was getting ready for Christmas. We could see in, all the lights were on, the nuns were dusting and laying out cloths, and it was beautiful. With a brief break in the rain, we could see both Italy to the west and Croatia to the east. Piran was like a medieval fairy tale city.
Neal and Minka walking in Piran
Piran street
Getting ready for Christmas in Piran's church
The 23rd, we visited Plečnik's house. He was the main city architect - planner in the early 1900's, when Ljubljana was rebuilding after a devastating earthquake. This was a must-see with our urban planner son! After shopping for clothes for Neal, we took the bus to Lake Bled.
Our hotel, Alp Penzion, spoiled us rotten! They have the best food ever, and Thai massage right here, and such nice people. Katarina was anxiously waiting for us to arrive. She invited us to a farmhouse to sample schnapps. Blanca and her family live there, and make schnapps from pears in their orchard, plus seasonings from local herbs and fruits. Who knew schnapps could be so delicious! Since the farmers don't have too much work during winter, they distill pear juice into 45% alcohol, then add flavorings and ferment. It takes 6 months to make, then 6 months to drink before the next batch. No hangovers, since it's all natural. It was true - no hangovers! My favorite was orange schnapps. The pine schnapps appealed to Ed, but it was too pungent for me.
Blanca with a bottle of schnapps
Christmas eve, and we're in the warmest place in Europe. Rain, rain, rain. We and Katarina walked to a couple of nearby towns through fields that were covered with mist over melting snow. 2-1/2 hours and we were soaked. Perfect time to sit in a coffee shop and drink cappuccinos, mulled wine, and Christmas punch. Lake Bled is good for sitting in coffee shops. Then Neal and I had back massages. Wow. We signed Ed up to get one, too, on the 26th. At 5 o'clock we walked around the lake for an hour and a half, getting soaked again. Dinner was a traditional roast chicken with bread stuffing. But you start with the hostess bringing you homemade bread (it was braided) and walnuts. Then there's soup. Then the chicken, and finally cake and sweet breads. After a nap, Neal and I went to St. Martin's for midnight mass. This is a spectacular parish church, designed in 1905. We were fascinated by the murals. They were so natural. Besides Jesus and the cross, the last supper, and other traditional images, there was a farmer scene and a 1930's scene. The ceilings were covered with intricate designs in red and gold that looked Arabic to us. And there were 5 Christmas trees inside the church.
The only island in Slovenia, with its church - summer weddings, so romantic
Get to Bled Island on a pletna, piloted gondola.
Hay-drying rack in the misty moisty morning
Christmas day we decided to stay dry. Ed and Neal went to the casino. I stayed in to read and knit. In the afternoon, Neal and I got reflexology foot massages, and at 5 o'clock there was the raising of the bell ceremony. A lighted bell rises from the lake, and locals play bell music.
Scuba divers from all over Slovenia carrying torches around the floating Christmas tree
to be continued... when the sun finally comes out!
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