On the Denmark Strait: Joyful Birds; Ittoqqortoormiit


The ship has saunas and hot tubs. It has massage tables and a yoga studio with morning stretches. It has things called Igloos that are rented for a night out under the stars. There are two restaurants, one fancier and one less fancy, with no assigned seating. Casual clothes and tennis shoes on board all the time.

I enjoyed the saunas, while Dee loved the hot tubs looking out over the aft (rear). We had to learn other technical terms, like starboard (right side) and port (left side). Fore was one that tricked us when we were gathering for our group photo - at the front of the ship. We almost didn't get there in time.

Massages anyone?

The igloo is for sleeping out under the stars. It has hot water bottles or something and a skin on the bed, and they're supposed to bring you a cappuccino in the morning. I was sitting in the sauna on a couple of mornings, looking out at the igloos, and, apparently, it was too uncomfortable for many folks. A nice warm cabin drew them out before the morning coffee!

We met SueAnn, an avid birdwatcher, who confirmed that we were watching Northern Fulmars party down over the waves. They barely flapped their wings, just drafted from the ship's wind. They would dip one wing tip in the waves, then lift up high, then repeat the dance.


How do you get to shore? On a Zodiak!

Here's the launch routine. Put on your waterproof boots and pants and jackets, followed by your life vest. Next, wave your name tag at the sign-2.out machine so they know you are off board. They count off 10 or fewer folks to step into the inflatable Zodiak, using the wrist grips, not hand grips, of the two on board crew. Once you get back aboard, you have to wave your name tag on the same machine so they know you are safely back. Don't forget, or they can call your room or embarrassingly, page you aloud.

Approaching Ittoqqortoormiit

Our first stop - in Greenland! Ittoqqortoormiit, a small town of hunters. We got there on a rare sunny day, and covered the town in small groups. I think we annoyed the drivers! We learned about musk oxen, life when your town gets only two shipments of supplies per year, raising Greenland dogs, and colorful houses.

A road


Checking out the museum

Our lovely hostess let us taste musk ox rolls on toothpicks. Actually delicious!

Greenland dogs are a hard working breed.

They are involved in a oil drilling controversy. Remember their simple lifestyle, hunting? Imagine the impact of Greenland Oil coming in and drilling right next door! I watched the new CEO Larry Swets, a Trump ally, give a talk to their people, and he struck me as completely slimy. He came with a Canadian woman, who had the decency to pronounce their town's name, and answer their questions about what happened to the animals in Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. The town said no, and even had a protest march. The Greenland government told him, "Permits first!"

So what did the CEO do? He brought drilling equipment and put it on shore this month. Larry Swets says he will start drilling this October. Following the Trump usual storyline of ignoring laws. If Greenland refuses to let him go ahead, will Trump further his imperialist attacks on Greenland? One of his AI posts shows him looming over Greenland, headlined "Hello, Greenland"!

News from this month: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2026/aug/08/greenland-iwarning-trump-linked-oil-firm-prepares-drill?CMP=share_btn_url

News from last October: https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/markets/a-texas-company-plans-to-drill-for-oil-in-greenland-despite-a-climate-change-ban-and-trump-s-desire-to-annex-the-territory/ar-AA1OWOBL

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